The fuel line after I cut it in half with a pipe cutter.
The fuel line after I removed it.
Spark plug kit. The can has Anti-seize lubricant in it, basically etch-a-sketch crap mixed w/oil. The socket is a 13/16 craftsman spark plug socket, 1/2" drive. TURN COUNTERCLOCKWISE TO LOOSEN!!

Mazda spark plug location. By the way, I removed and installed them one at a time so as not to confuse myself about the distributor cables. See, some things about an RX7 are just easier to deal with, such as being able to reach all of the spark plugs, whereas on a traditional small block, for example, in our '84 camaro, I think the rear right hand plug is still the one from the factory!I tightened the plugs with my fingers. If you feel any resistance, stop right away! The rotor housing is made of aluminum and is extremely delicate. Tighten too much, you can strip the threads. Tighten too little, and as you run the engine, vibrations will loosen the plug and possibly send it shooting out of the housing along with the threads, ie, disaster will strike. You're supposed to tighten them with a torque wrench. I don't know how to use one, but in my next videos, putting in the nippon-densos, I'll demonstrate use of the torque wrench and meet factory specs.
My homemade fuel pump mounting. I drilled the holes with a plain old drill, using WD-40 as lube. Apparently, according to my dad, the machinist/welder, that's not the best thing to use (I was alone). It can catch fire. Also, this design did not fit under the car. I will have to work something else out. Well, I learned something anyway!










