Thursday, June 25, 2009

Later... rather than sooner.

Here's the plan that I've been pondering on and playing with for the last few months. I don't like my car being parked in my Grandma's yard (she doesn't understand what's so great about a funky little car with no trim, then again, she's the one with the '04 Camaro...), and I don't like the idea of welding a fuel cell together. From info I've gathered, the urethane they fill them with disentegrates after a short period of time and crap in my fuel line from the tank is what started this situation to begin with. No, not gonna do that.

Also, I'm not the best pipe bender. Let's leave it at that!!!! No, I refuse to post pictures of my kinked 3/8" stainless brake line!!! No.

So, as I mentioned previously... here's the plan.

I bought a fuel tank from the back of a Summit catalog for a '94 Chevy S10 Blazer. the filler neck is perfect and all I had to do was cut out the spare tire well. And get my dad to help me chisel out some umm.. parts of the back. The well is tack welded in, drill out the tack welds with a 5/16" drill bit, then a bigger one, using motor oil as lube. I used HD-30, but it probably doesn't make a difference.
Here is a picture of the well once it has been removed.









"Will it work?" you ask. Of course it will work. Here's the basic idea for the fuel system.

First of all, remove the muffler. Then you need a two-by-four to brace the straps that hold the gas tank on. You also need to drill a hole in the rear 'framework' of the vehicle, moving the right strap (looking from the back to the front of the car) over a few inches, like six inches. I can get some more detailed pictures for you all later, next time I go down, this 4th of July weekend. Once you get the 2.5" bolts, nuts and washers from the hardware or building supply store you can drill holes in the two-by-four or super strut and bolt the tank in. You will then notice that the left framework that supports your bumper is in the way. Chisel, saw or something your way through that creating a little hole. See where that little access panel is in the lower right-hand of that picture? thats where the hole has to be.

Now you have a tough decision. use the original filler neck assembly and make some crazy shaped tube that is gasoline resistant and somehow fills the tank, forget the whole thing and call the junkyard to cart this heap out of your yard, or cut a hole in the back of the car on the flat part near the hatch and still use the original filler neck, but just run a tube directly to a 90 elbow that is connected to the tank somehow.

So, the latter is what I am working on, Dad wants to weld something together, and I'm all for that. I was also all for just putting it on the roof and running some 5/16" rubber to the carb... just kidding. Dad is a great welder and I trust him to make something safe and innovative and there will be pictures.


Then you can start to worry about the actual fuel system... I'm not going to post that yet because that is exactly the next step in my plan. But I will tell you it involves a homemade bypass regulator (a brass and teflon valve), the factory Chevy S10 fuel injection fuel pump assembly, and gasoline (gasp!).

By the way, isn't it amazing how that tank fits in despite it being for a truck? Doesn't make sense... the factory one is the one that looks strange now!

Oh and here are some pictures of me drilling holes in the bottom of the car, and a short video of my dad chiseling a hole.



Drilling the hole for the strap that needed to be moved.
The engineers that put this together are either committing harakiri
or considering killing me.


Protect your face with a box from a cake.
You don't need flying shards of metal blinding you as you drill
holes in the bottom of your car.
Or, if you are lucky enough to drill into the bottom of a mouse nest,
protect yourself from flying rat shit.